Road trip to St. Tropez
Côte d’Azur Party, 7-8 May 2010
We were on our way to the 4th Harley-Davidson Euro festival in St. Tropez. Gavin had planned our route down to the rally site and Janet had booked the accommodation. There were ten of us in the group, Gavin, Janet, Chris, Ruth, Terry, Manuela, Paul, Oliver, Mick and myself. It was supposed to be an easy start with most of the group meeting the night before at a hotel just 5 miles from the tunnel crossing. The plan was to meet up with Oliver and Paul at the terminal before crossing on the train. 
Unfortunately we missed our reserved slot, but despite torrential rain, various electrical problems and a 2 hour journey managed to get on at the allotted time! When we got into Calais, we spent an hour waiting at a café for Gavin to locate the others. This proved to be the least of our problems. We had only travelled 120km when Gavin’s drive belt broke. After weighing up the possibilities (and the first of many photo opportunities for Manuela!) it was decided that Gavin and Janet would wait for the recovery truck while the rest of us waited at a convenient McDonalds.
It was Sunday and the HD garage was closed. Luckily the dealership principle drove by and offered to open up for us for the bike to await repairs. It was closed until the following day so Janet decided to hire a car to carry the extra luggage. We continued on our way with Gavin leading the group on Janet’s bike. The route was fantastic, we took in small towns and coastal roads whilst heading for a hotel in Criel sur Mer. On arriving at our destination we immediately showered and hurried down to the bar before enjoying dinner and another drink or two whilst waiting for Janet to arrive. She later phoned to say that she had hit a kerb and had a flat tyre but that the garage were on their way. Over two hours later, it was dark and raining when the garage finally arrived to replace the wheel. They did not realize that the other wheel was also badly damaged and Janet ended up driving the 10 km to the hotel with a flat tyre.
Next morning Mick took the wheel off and put it on the back of his glide and went with Janet and Oliver to locate a garage that could fix the problem. At the third garage they persuaded the mechanic to straighten the wheel out with a hammer and replace the tyre. 
Janet had to return with the second wheel and decided to catch us up later. We left the hotel at 12.30 and enjoyed the fantastic route Gavin had planned to the chateaux. We passed through towns and tiny villages. We stopped off for a lunch break at a pleasant inn where the usual menu issues were magically resolved when the owner took the initiative and brought out platters of meat and bread. After several photo sessions we were on the road again. We arrived at the impressive entrance of the chateaux around 6pm to be confronted with the newly shingled driveway. It was very deep and we all struggled to keep the bikes upright. Terry with pillion and luggage dropped his bike but managed to lay it down so no damage to his bike or the lovely Manuela. Fortunately he got away with just a sore knee and a slightly bruised ego. The Chateaux de Jonvilliers was not far from Paris and was surrounded by beautiful parkland. We all agreed that Janet had done us proud. The charming owners were very welcoming and cooked us a fantastic meal with drinks to round off the evening.
The next morning we all left together. Oliver decided to ride in the Twingo so that Gavin could lead the ride on his bike. The roads were great with lots of exciting bends. It began to get very windy and Terry and Manuela decided to use the motorway. We arrived at our lunch stop and waited for Oliver to join us. He telephoned us to say that he had put petrol in the diesel car and was waiting outside the fuel garage to be recovered. He eventually joined us 250 euros later. The car was to be picked up later that afternoon after a new fuel filter and pipe had been fitted. Mick, myself Chris and Ruth decided to make up for lost time on the motorway. We arrived at Geneuille and after many u-turns arrived at our destination - a Sculpture workshop in the middle of a housing estate? We asked a few local people who all seemed to be as confused as we were to the whereabouts of the chateaux. When we arrived at the giant sculptures a second time, we pulled over. A man spotted our map reading and offered his services. It turned out he was the local mayor and a Harley rider as well! He very kindly escorted us the 8 km to the chateaux-de-la-blanch at Besancon.
We finally arrived about 8 pm where we were met by Terry, Manuela and our new recruit Mark, and they were clearly not amused. They were starving hungry and the hotel would not serve them food until the entire group had arrived, and only then if it was before 9.30. We fervently hoped that Gavin’s SatNav worked better than ours because it turned out Terry and Manuela had visited the same sculptures! The hotel was stunning and was such a shame we did not have the time or energy to explore more. Gavin, Oliver and Paul arrived about 9pm. Janet had still not arrived but the restaurant manager finally relented and we began to eat. Consequently, when a very tired Janet finally found us at around 10pm, she had a cold meal.
On Wednesday, the weather forecast was very bad. Rain and wind had set in and snow was expected in the Alps. Chris, Ruth, Mick, Nick Oliver Terry and Manuela and Mark decided to take the motorway. Gavin, Paul and Janet in the Twingo decided to take the scenic route The plan was to meet at the hotel that had been pre-booked in the Alps. Eventually the weather became so bad that we decided to stop in Grenoble. We booked into a Novotel where we were surrounded by stunning scenery and a fantastic view of the Alps. We phoned the others who were having their own difficulties with the weather, Janet’s bike mirror had snapped in the wind and they were already on their way to the HD dealership in Grenoble to hire a bike for Gavin. They decided to book in with us at the hotel. The others finally arrived at the hotel, complete with Gavin’s Screaming Eagle Electra glide (piled high with the luggage they had been carrying in the car). Poor Gavin was limping badly because he had slipped on a wet floor with the loaded bike.
Thursday morning, Gavin’s leg was still bad and he decided to return the glide to the dealership in Grenoble and pick the Twingo back up. It was then that Paul’s bike would not fire up and had to be bump started. The verdict from the garage was that the noisy V-Rod would not be going to St. Tropez, it was having an engine rebuild instead. Paul would now have to travel in the Twingo. The weather was cold and rainy and the remaining seven decided the safest way forward was to get back onto the motorway.
Just before a fuel stop Oliver came hurtling past us with his jacket flying open. We pulled over at the motorway services where a bruised and shaken Oliver explained that he had been hit in the chest by a large bolt from a lorry. We continued our journey and somewhere whilst entering Provence the weather began to improve. Our descent towards St. Maxime with its breathtaking views and fantastic winding roads lifted our spirits and the sun finally shone for us! We finally arrived at Port Grimaud at 2pm.
In January, six of us had decided to book into the hotel opposite the rally site. When we arrived our reservation could not be found. Despite booking numbers and receipts for the whole amount there was no room at the inn! The hotel had cancelled our reservation with Hotel.com when Harley Davidson had booked the whole hotel in March. We had not been informed and no rooms were available within a 10 mile radius! The irate voices of Terry, Chris and Mick could be heard by all as they talked on their respective mobiles to Hotels.com. I took one look at Manuela and we both collapsed about laughing. I was so tired I could have cried instead. Mick managed to speak to Nigel Villiers who was able to find one room in the hotel. Chris and Ruth’s accommodation was sorted. Oliver very kindly gave up his beach hut to share with Gavin, Janet and Paul. Thanks Guys. We eventually managed to book into the rally and met the rest of our group in the reception. Whilst being escorted to the accommodation Janet dropped her bike in the mud (thankfully only minor damage) The parking area was really bad, much of it was cordoned off because it was too muddy. Staff told us that many bikes had gone over already that day.
The beach huts were fantastic and by a toss of the coin, Mick and myself managed to get the double bed, Hurrah some good luck! Oops sorry Terry, Manuela. Later that same evening whilst the electrics in Gavin’s cabin were repaired, we had a lovely time eating and drinking to sounds of distant music whilst conversing with our fellow comrades (maybe men can multi task after all!). We awoke on Friday to the welcome sound of Harleys revving up and a fresh start to our holiday. Today the sun was shining. After wandering round the site for a couple of hours we met with Terry and Manuela and wandered across to Port Grimaud. After taking in the beautiful Venetian styled village we found a restaurant where we relaxed for a couple of hours. We were quite merry when we left and decided to check out where the water taxi was for our evening in St. Tropez for the Friday night meet. This took quite awhile without our SatNav but eventually we managed to read the map and armed with the welcome knowledge of a different mode of transport, walked back along the sand to our beach hut.
We caught the last ferry to St. Tropez at 6.30. and met the rest of C&F to enjoy a great evening recounting tales and checking out the bikes. I was impressed to see Warr’s had shipped a couple of stunning custom bikes that Charlie had built and were displayed on the Quay outside the Irish Bar.
On Saturday it was the day we had been looking forward to. The Chelsea ride out and beach party. We all met at the villa just outside Gassin for a breakfast under a wisteria clad veranda. It was a fantastic turn out and it was promising to be a great day. We had a briefing on the expected route and the ‘drop off system’ with Pappas as last man. Paul had decided that he still wanted to do the ride and as he had no other means of transport decided to bring the Twingo! Of course he decided he must wear his helmet as well which has earned him the obvious nickname of Stig. 
John Warr led the ride which took us through the winding roads towards Le Lavandou and onto the coastal route past Cavalair-sur-mer. The sun was with us and I think we must have made an impressive sight riding through the small towns en route to Pampellone. During the ride, Terry did a right turn as indicated by the drop off and I followed. Immediately we realised our mistake and turned the bikes round. When we got back to the roundabout, there was no one there to direct us. The drop-off had not informed Pappas that three people had gone the wrong way. We tried various directions and finally got John Warr on the phone to explain our dilemma. They had already arrived at the beach restaurant for lunch. Luckily Terry had a SatNav and we were able to find them. We arrived safely and after a much needed drink soon chilled out with everyone else. A big thanks to John, Rob and the team who had surpassed themselves as usual with an incredible spread. 
As to the identity of the drop off man, we will probably never know. Maybe Terry never should...
Sunday morning, we decided to leave a day earlier than intended. The weather forecast was not good and we thought it would be wise to give ourselves more time. Gavin and Janet still had to return the Twingo and pick up Gavin’s bike, Grizzly, Sue and Oliver travelled with them. Whilst trying to catch up with the Election news in UK there was a weather update. The volcano in Iceland was still causing chaos with Europe’s air space. Stig was being flown home by Hog assist and managed to get onto a flight just 30 minutes before they were all cancelled. 
Manuela could not fly out and bravely decided to chance her luck and ride back with Terry and the remaining group. At one of the fuel stops, we noticed several bike alarms were going off. Some guy was pushing a bike along all lights flashing, possible theft did enter my head momentarily but my bike soon joined in. The radio masks were interfering with the alarm frequency and we could not de-activate it. We found that this can be solved by pushing the bike between two parked lorries and using three men to crouch over it with their jackets held open to block said radio signal. The RAC arranged for a local recovery company to pick the bike up and a pick up truck was with us within the hour. We were moving Northwards! We phoned HD in Lyon and they booked the bike in at 2pm (after lunch). The three remaining Harleys followed the truck through the town and then bizarrely into a housing estate. The driver picked up a car which he then attached and towed behind. We followed, creating a peculiar convoy slowly moving with the traffic, finally ending up in the middle of God knows where outside an Opal garage. Mick went to see the driver who waved two fingers at him. After two minutes we saddled up and got ready for the off! Two and half hours later, our driver returned from his lunch. We had been unable to go ahead to the dealership garage because there were two locations. No one was answering the telephone at the dealership, they had taken a long lunch as well... Oliver phoned to say Janet had taken a spill on a roundabout, slipping on the white line. She was bruised but okay. The bike was damaged but rideable. 
After 20 miles she could not continue and Gavin took over. Oliver continued to Calais alone. In Lyon the garage were very good and quickly replaced voltage regulator, speedometer, front bulbs and some fuses. Apparently I had 20 volts going through the bike. Not sure if that included my heated waistcoat because I had been freezing and my handgrips were not getting warm enough.
We stayed in Lyon that night as the weather had worsened and well, we had frankly had enough. Oliver got to Calais and text us with the suggestion that we buy our train tickets on-line because it cost 99 euros for a single crossing but 32 euros return! The next morning we had many miles to catch up. We got to St. Quentin at around 4.30 and booked into a hotel. What a beautiful town, we all agreed it was worth a second visit although no one suggested we used our cheap return ticket to do this! The next morning we headed straight to Calais. Approx 160 km. We got straight on the train and were home by 3.00pm. We invited Chris and Ruth in for coffee, before their final 5 miles. No coffee for us, the Aga had gone out... where are those 20 spare volts when you need them ?
And would we do this again, Absolutely! Or in the words of our youngest member of Chelsea & Fulham, “I’d go back tomorrow!” (Steady on Oliver...)
This road trip was exhausting and at times bloody frustrating but I feel yet again as we all do on these trips that despite all it was still an incredible unique experience and I had an amazing time. A big Thank You to Gavin, Janet, John and Rob Warr and the team for all their hard work in arranging such a memorable trip.
Nicky Newstead - C&F Member